krash
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Post by krash on Oct 16, 2018 17:24:08 GMT -5
Ok so I came back after 5 days away yesterday, today go to get in the car and nothing... doors won't even unlock with the key-fob... use the manual method with the key, no overhead light, no click when I turn the key, no radio... nothing.
Crap, Crap, Crap.
I recently had dead battery, replaced it, a week later away for 3 days in Tampa and same thing dead again... AAA came and said its dead as dead, tested it and when the dude hooked up his jump box the alarm starts sounding and won't reset/off, built in factory alarm horn beeps and beeps, hooks up his jumper cables and after a second or two the alarm can be reset with the key-fob. Dude says its probably your alarm system running down the battery.. I say no f'n way one of my neighbors would have heard it and complained or shot someone. Next door neighbor is an energetic young BSO cop....
AAA dude says try to crank it, he has his tester setup and runs all his test.. says its not the starter or alternator and replaces the battery again. Been using the car for the past 2 or 3 weeks and it;s been working just fine, although I don't drive it that much or even every day.
Go away to Nashville, car sits for 5 days, and now it's dead, like some would say dead as a doornail... I've never really seen a doornail so IDK but its pretty dead, no door unlock, no radio, no lights, and no start.... crap, crap, crap. Something is running it down slowly, but there are no lights left on, horn is not sounding... only that little red led on the dash indicating the alarm is set blinking. I'm betting this will be expensive, and if it is I may be car-less soon.
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Post by sailor on Oct 17, 2018 2:42:16 GMT -5
I hate electrical issues  |
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krash
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Post by krash on Oct 17, 2018 8:24:54 GMT -5
For sure Sailor... it's not going to be easy to track down, its not like there is a light on.. I will either have to take it to a shop, or get an Amp-meter and try pulling fuse by fuse and hope I can at least fint the circuit causing it to drain the battery.
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Post by I Fishhead on Oct 17, 2018 10:45:43 GMT -5
It's probably your alarm system running down the battery.  |
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krash
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Post by krash on Oct 17, 2018 10:58:34 GMT -5
Could be FH, it's something, but for now its dead as it can be... the alarm system is just the factory system not an add on, just the simple beeping of the horn, lock doors, hit lock twice, lights flash and the horn beeps twice, unlock doors and its disarmed. Hit the manic button on the key-fob and it starts beeping, hit it again and it stops.
Wish I had not thrown out my charger long ago... gotta wait again for AAA to come give me a jump.
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Post by sailor on Oct 17, 2018 12:50:28 GMT -5
Could be a million things: hood or trunk light staying on, etc.
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krash
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Post by krash on Oct 17, 2018 17:04:22 GMT -5
Could be a million things: hood or trunk light staying on, etc. Neither of those, so its down to one or more of the 999, 998 other things. Still dead, did not even touch it today. Went outside and the other car had a near flat... dealt with that, almost new tires less than 2 months old.. and of course its a nail right in a marginal area that some places would say sorry no-fix... and no road hazzard warranty. Took it to a place where I purchased the tires and they were able to fix it, remove tire and patch form inside, re-balance.. and of course also needed a wheel allignment... yet another hundred bucks down the tubes. Tomorrow will call AAA and get a jump, and further test the Civic woes !!!!!!!!! |
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Post by sailor on Oct 17, 2018 17:42:56 GMT -5
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Post by I Fishhead on Oct 17, 2018 17:52:29 GMT -5
Yeah it's frustrating. Like how do you really know that the refrigerator light actually goes off when you shut the door?  |
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krash
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Posts: 4,324
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Post by krash on Oct 18, 2018 10:10:03 GMT -5
Yeah it's frustrating. Like how do you really know that the refrigerator light actually goes off when you shut the door? Simple, get in and look.... AAA back on the scene again today, tested it... battery totally dead no crankin amps... jumped it, and checked said starter and alternator are good, replaced the battery again, and its back alive and running... I'm not convinced that I had 2 replacement batteries that totally failed, still think something is draining it, but at least it starts now. A little interweb searching says replace the ac-compressor relay, seems like a common failing component on some Honda models.. relay fails in on position so clutch stays engaged even when car is off and drains battery while sitting. |
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Post by sailor on Oct 18, 2018 10:29:53 GMT -5
You still have an issue, two new batteries do not go bad.
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yakfishingfool
Derelict
It's not the size of the kayak that matters, it's how you move in tight places.
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Post by yakfishingfool on Oct 19, 2018 17:20:19 GMT -5
get a switch to add to the positive terminal and just turn it to isolate the battery. Cheap easy and be done with it.
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krash
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Post by krash on Oct 20, 2018 8:10:01 GMT -5
get a switch to add to the positive terminal and just turn it to isolate the battery. Cheap easy and be done with it. Was thinking of getting one of those cool toggle swicth's like drag race cars have... but the reality is there is something wrong draining the battery, this is a new issue started in te last 3 or 4 weeks. Switching off, disconnecting power, is a PITA as that disables the alarm system, you can't unlock doors with the key-fob, and everytime you turn it back on the alarm sounds and the secret radio security code has to be re-entered, plus the computer has to re-train itself for emission normalization, tire pressure readings and stuff. It started just fine yesterday and ran all over for a while.. this morning when I walked the dog the red led on the dash was still blinking like it should be. I dug out my old multi-meter yesterday, and it will read up to 2 amps, but its been sitting for years and the battery is dead... need to get that thing working and do a little trouble shooting. Will connect between negative lead of battery and battery terminal, take a reading and start pulling fuses. It seems to take 3 days or more to drain the battery so its not a large, high amp, load that's causing the problem probably a half amp or so. There will always be some load for the alarm system and the system that listens for your key-fob button pressed signal to unlock/lock the doors and disable/enable the alarm.. the clock is digital part of the radio but that draws some power also. |
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Post by sailor on Oct 20, 2018 9:45:13 GMT -5
Let youtube be your friend. There isn't anything that has happened automotive wise that isn't captured in the tube. I learned so much about my truck that way. Give it a shot.
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krash
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Post by krash on Oct 20, 2018 12:00:39 GMT -5
Let youtube be your friend. There isn't anything that has happened automotive wise that isn't captured in the tube. I learned so much about my truck that way. Give it a shot. Been there done that,,, that's how you get the idea to check the ac-clutch relay as a suspected culprit, but rather than shotgun it, as we called in when I was a bag carrying clown fixing computers and start buying and replacing parts, I'm a gonna procrastinate a while then try and troubleshoot the problem rather than just jump on the you tube theoretical maybe this might fix it train. I did figure out how to run diagnostics on my AC system, how to replace the interior lights, and the door window weather strips, but could not figure out why my rear speakers are not working. Like the rest of the old inter-web its a quagmire of mis-direction and information, you have to proceed with caution and watch where you step. |
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